November 19, 2004

this column has been stewing for quite some time...

Gentle Readers, I take it upon myself to ask questions that you either would deem unimportant or not even come up with. One such question popped into my this afternoon head as I was gnawing on a tender but bland tandoori chicken leg at Kamal Palace, one of the first Indian restaurants that have emerged to the west of the UC-Berkeley campus. Why are most Indian restaurants buffets? Then the questions multiplied. Why are there so many Chinese buffets? Is there something inherent to these cuisines that make them particularly amenable to buffet-dom? These questions cannot be answered right here, right now, because I have not eaten enough Indian food outside of a buffet setting. I posed this question to Isabel Chon, this Friday's dining companion. She had no idea.

Most Indian curries that I have eaten have been stewed, and thus are particularly well-suited to sit in a steam tray for a while, where they may even improve with a little time. However, I wonder if they are supposed to be cooked with that much liquid. At Kabab & Curry and Naan 'n' Curry (I sense an article about repetitive Indian restaurant nomenclature), which are the two non-buffet Indian restaurants at which I have eaten, the curries were more saucy than soupy, and were decidedly fresher and more boldly seasoned. I could also more easily scoop up these made-to-order curries with naan. Buffet curries tend to run together on the plate and end up tasting like a generic mish-mash of Indian food.

While pondering these questions, tucked into the buffet. We both enjoyed the naan; it was soft and pillowy on the inside, but crisp on the outside. The tandoori chicken legs were juicy and tender, but I doubt they were actually made in a tandoor. They were barely charred on the outside and lacked the typical smokiness that typically draws me to them. I had a servng and a half of a rather anonymous and underseasoned lamb curry. I'm also pretty certain that some of the chunks of lamb were actually chunks of chicken. In any case, the lumps of mystery meat in this soupy creation tenderized because of its long stay in the steam tray.

Assorted Vegetable pakoras, which were mainly thickly battered onions, gave off the flavor of old, oily dough. When dipped in a ramekin of supposed tamarind chutney, they ended up tasting oddly like apple fritters, as the chutney, upon further examination looked and tasted to me like applesauce spiked until dark brown with cinnamon. The mint-based chutney yielded more normal-tasting results.

Also available (but avoided by me) at the buffet were a pan of thick, coagulating, day-glo orange chicken tikka masala, an insipid-looking lentil soup, a couple types of basmati rice, some salad, a few additional very watery vegetable and meat curries, and orange slices.

Though I may not know what good Indian food is, I'm pretty sure it doesn't often manifest itself in buffet form. I cannot be absolutely sure why the food was lacking in quality. Should I blame the chef or the chafing dish?

122 Comments:

At 11/30/2004 11:08:00 AM, Blogger matt said...

Both Chinese and Indian are amenable to buffet-dom due to both the saucy nature of the cuisines and because both cuisines are generally eaten family style. Why aren't there more Italian and Thai buffets? I don't know.

Kamal Palace is easily the worst Indian restaurant I have ever eaten at. I only ate there once, roughly 4 years ago. Khana Peena has a better buffet, but it is somewhat limited. In England, Chicken Tikka Masala (which is actually an English dish made by Indians with Indian spices) is often colored a darker red. A more muted orange is probably the best color for Tikka Masala. Khana Peena's tikka masala is only slightly colored (orange), but it was tasty and fairly fresh when I ate there on Sunday. The Tandoori Chicken was tasty and tender. The same could not be said about the lamb.

 
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