October 15, 2004

The Theory of Chili

Gentle Readers, I would like to announce that it is my friend Angelee Field's 23rd birthday today. We will be feasting like Vanderbilts and Rockefellers at the House of Prime Rib, one of the last vestiges of old San Francisco. I must now admit that in related news, I failed to conduct the regularly scheduled business of a nice lunch with a companion today in order to make room for the impending prime rib. Thus, the chili I am about to talk about was neither made nor eaten on Friday for lunch. I apologize for the confusion. Now, Gentle Reader, on to the chili!

The attributed last words of American frontiersman Kit Carson were "Wish I had time for just one more bowl of chili." He must have been thinking about a spicy, steaming, pepper-laden bowl of red, rather than the bland, starchy concoctions poured out of a can, or the greasy sloppy-joe meat atop soggy spaghetti that passes for chili in Cincinnati. What then is chili and what are acceptable modifications to it?

Chili, the stew-like dish, is the shortened form of "chili con carne," which is itself a corruption of the Spanish chile con carne, that is to say chile peppers with meat. These days, the chile peppers in chili are often in the form of chili powder blends, which were invented in the 1890s by William Gephardt, a native of New Braunfels, Texas. Chili powder blends generally consist of ground and dried chili peppers, cayenne pepper, paprika. Some also include ground cumin, garlic powder, salt, or oregano. Because of the variations on blends of commercially prepared chili powders, it is important that you read the label so you have some sort of idea of the taste and level of heat the spice mix has. Generally accpeted (outside of Texas) additions to the chili pot include tomatoes, garlic, kidney, pinto and/or black beans, and onions. Seeing that the dish has "chili" in the name, it seems obvious to me that chilis must be not only present in the finished product, but a featured part of it. Thus, any recipe calling for "1 teaspoon of chili powder," or "chili powder to taste," you can throw out. For the carne portion, ground and cubed beef are the most popular options. However, I have found that almost any chopped or ground meat with a distinct flavor of its own can match up to the spice and heat of the chili. Similarly, while perhaps unorthodox (and even Californian), I have found that the addition of minced fresh chiles, diced bell peppers, and green onions have garnered favorable reviews.

My goal when making a pot of chili is to create a framework of spice on which I place the other ingredients. These ingredients blend, to some degree to become more than the sum of their parts, but I also try to make sure that those who eat it can still taste each ingredient. It is still possible to taste each ingredient while still featuring the spice of chile peppers. To me, the chili powder and meat become the medium, and the other ingredients become the details. As long as it is a stewed dish that features meat and chili powder and/or chile peppers, it is still chili con carne. Cincinnati chili does not feature chili powder or peppers, so it is not, by this definition, chili.

The chili pictured here was made on the evening of Wednesday, 10/13/2004. This is what it consisted of:

1 pound ground turkey (dark meat only)
3 15 oz. cans of black beans
1 handful diced prosciutto
about 1 cup of diced tomato
4 minced garlic
2 finely minced serrano peppers
1 medium onion, finely minced
1/2 green pepper, diced
1 red bell pepper, diced
tomato paste
1 ounce chili powder plus additional cumin and paprika
a couple cups of water
garnish of 2 green onions, sliced on the bias
a little oil

When making anything with dried spices, I advise you to toast them in a hot pan to fully activate them. This leads to a more complex tasting dish. Also remember to know what is in the chili powder blend you are using. The blend of the dark tasting ground turkey with the richness of the diced prosciutto (which melts into chili, thickening it) has grown on me lately, providing a more complex flavor than does ground beef. The simmering time for this dish should be no less than 1 hour, to ensure the proper blending of flavors.

I prefer to eat my chili over rice. Many enjoy melting some sharp cheddar, queso fresco, or jack cheese on top and eating that with crackers or cornbread. My roommates Toa and Jackie seem to enjoy this chili à la Ward Street, that is with Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers mixed in upon serving.

Gentle Reader, armed with this knowledge hopefully you will be able to enjoy good chili and get enough of it, unlike our friend Mr. Carson.

A modest serving of chili in an Ikea bowl held by my roommate, Toakase Latu. Posted by Hello


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